Oban to Skye via Ferry from Mallaig

 

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Our stay for the night in Oban was at the Wellpark House, a comfortable stay with good bike parking at the rear (a few other bikes there too) with helpful staff and quite a large continental breakfast to help start our day. On the lead up to the trip the weather was always going to be a bit 'iffy and sure enough a light drizzle as we lefty Oban to head out toward Glencoe and Fort William. The chosen route took us inland and although a bit damp to start off with by the time we reached The Green Welly at Tyndrum the sun was shining and the temperature was rising towards the 20's. 

  

Today's ride would lead us to catch our second ferry across to Skye from Mallaig and thankfully the forecast for the crossing looked good. For this crossing we had pre-booked and cost about £8.00 each using the CalMac route. The sailing time was 14:45 with a 20 minute check-in time so we needed to be there for 2pm. As ever the ride through the 'mighty' Glencoe was great as the big mountains appear on the run up and you get to thunder through the big valley between them after. Not too much traffic considering it's holiday season so I decided to take a small diversion before reaching Ballachulish on to the B863 and ride the very picturesque loop around Lochleven to Kinlochleven crossing the bridge to Kinlochmore continuing the ride on the opposite side after a short stop to admire the view (below).    

We had the usual slow moving convoy through Fort William and out the other side but I did notice there were no coaches this time so at least we were able to get through the traffic easier before peeling off on to the A830 toward Mallaig past Loch Eil. We both really enjoyed this road the further west it went past Glenfinnen the wilder the scenery became and the faster the free flowing bends came on us as we quickly ran past Loch Eilt, both pausing for a short while to stop at separate times at the road work convoy system to admire the view before pressing on with a gentle cruise to the outskirts of Mallaig. I had now met up with Mark again who I lost behind in the traffic of Fort William, but didn't have to wait too long to see him appear in the distance on the empty road down. Great fun. 

While waiting for Mark I couldn't believe this scenery was typical of the UK, it did seem more like another continent to me!

 

We arrived at Mallaig over an hour before check in so parked up and grabbed a drink and lunch with a wander around. The ferry staff didn't seem too concerned with strapping the bikes down suggesting it was "Did Cam" (Scottish accent) which I took to mean dead calm, so put my trust in them and left my bike in gear. most people sit in the vehicles for the duration but not being an option for us we sat atop the outer deck to look at the views across to Armadale. 

Click to enlarge the route

While on the ferry we quickly loaded the route to loop us around Skye. The weather was perfect for us now, we were concerned last week today would be a wet one so decided to press on with the Skye route today rather than defer until the morning - the contingency plan if the weather was too bad. A bit of camper van traffic after disembarking before getting out into the wilds of Skye, however our first stop was Fairy Glen. Mark had been here before and it was featured in ABR so we decided to park up and walk up the hill to this strange enchanting bowl shaped valley with the tower like rocky outcrop at one end. Fascinating place almost like a miniature island view with quite unusual ridges sculpted into the hillside. Mark was feeling athletic and legged it up the 'tower' part, I tried it later but 'erm .. the gap through the rock was a bit too narrow for me and I didn't want to scuff my boots!

 

After Fairy Glen we turned right on to the Quiraing mountain road. Quite a short but dramatic road as it cuts through a huge landslip. The view was stunning from the top and I couldn't resist a 'Highlander' moment as I looked down on Mark taking the picture with his phone below me.   

Amazing road!

.. "there can only be one !"

Before our ride down to the hotel on the eastern side of Skye we passed by the 'Old man of Storr', a huge pinnacle of rock caused by the landslide. This is the closest you can get to it by road, yet still spectacular as the misty cloud swirls around it. Something quite mythical I thought. The next part of the ride is quiet and quite barren as the road hugs the coastline before heading back into the lively town of Portree. We are staying at the Dunollie Hotel in Broadford overlooking the 'Inner Sound' and not too far for tomorrows ride along the Kyle of Lochalsh. A good basic hotel with clean rooms and though the car park was a bit tight for space somewhere safe to park the bikes. Excellent day!

Riding the Eastern coast of Skye toward 'Old Man Of Storr'

Old Man Of Storr

Moffat to Oban via Loch Fyne and Inverary

 

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The weather this morning looked warm and fair with no risk of rain. I had planned several routes up to skip past the urban sprawl of Glasgow by getting the ferry across from Gourock to Dunoon the benefit of which mean we miss rush hour traffic around Glasgow and we get to avoid the ride around Loch Lomond that after past trips I feel is a bit boring after the first few miles usually sat behind a convoy of camper vans without seeing much due to the tree lined A82. Instead the idea was to ride up to Oban using the coast road around the (Sea) Loch Fyne instead.

Out in Dumfries and Galloway

Our friendly host Dave at the Buccleuch Arms was curious of our route up to Gourock so I ran it by him to get his opinion and he felt we would miss out on a great route through the Galloway forest. I adjusted the route extending it further south west to the village of Newton Stewart, Mark being up for the additional miles in order to ride some of the best roads in Dumfries and Galloway too. After a bit of bike maintenance for Mark where the staff assisted in lending a Tyre gauge and stirrup pump to check his pressures we said our farewells and were soon on our way. I have to say what a great place to stay with bike washing facilities, really helpful staff all of which were motorcycle enthusiasts too.  

We took a few stops along the way, the route was really good and so glad we took Dave's advice. The Forest section was definitely worth the extra miles  though we did get a bit mixed up near New Galloway and Newton Stewart where I lost Mark retraced back only to find the Navigator was dragging me in the wrong direction back to an original waypoint instead of along the A714. Eventually we found each other again, killed the offending waypoint and had a good ride through the lanes up to Girvan for a brief stop and look out across the sea to the island of Ailsa Craig otherwise known as "Paddy's Milestone". 

 

We made it out to Gourock but unfortunately I spotted a confusing sign that suggested the ferry to Dunoon was a few miles further on past a ferry port run by a different company than the one I had originally seen on-line. Mark wondering why I had ridden past the Western Ferries port didn't realise I was looking for the Calmac ferry but on arrival discovered the ferry crossing was foot passengers only. In the end we fuelled up at a petrol station  and were told by a local woman that Western Ferries were the best service anyway so quickly returned to make the Western Ferry boarding just in time for the next crossing. A bit confusing and I still have no idea if Calmac do offer a vehicle ferry service to Dunoon as is suggested by their website. Anyway, we were all aboard for the 20 minute crossing costing just under £10 each for Motorcycles. A good opportunity to relax a bit while aboard and admire the view.

Holy Loch

After crossing the Firth of Clyde what followed was an utterly sublime ride around Holy Loch and Loch Eck and then up to Strachur before riding down the wonderful scenic A83 toward Inverary with the 'Sea' Loch Fyne to the left of us before heading North again at Lochgilphead  on to the A816 to Oban. Passing that Oyster restaurant on Fyne had me craving for seafood I couldn't wait for a beer and meal in Oban and made me wish I could stop there and get a table overlooking the Loch.

A really good day riding, really pleased with my new bike and we both agreed the longer route through the forest was definitely worth it. A few beers in Oban and Fish and Chips outside admiring the view we were presented with an amazing sunset across the bay to top the day off a treat! (thanks Mark for the photos and that smokey flavoured Whisky too)

Ride up to Moffat

 

Click to enlarge the route

 

After lock down and all of the recent tour / holiday upheaval, any plan to visit the Picos in Spain or the Alps have been put on hold this year, so I started to consider the possibility of touring Scotland again. With a brand new 1250 GS sat in the garage my only option would be to repeat rides across the Welsh border for this Summer, and since I'd already covered the usual runs out West I discussed the possibility of a Scottish wander with Mark who was well up for it too. 

I wasn't sure if I could get a trip-away 'visa' from the Mrs though ('happy wife, happy Life' and all that)  but after the latest edition of Adventure Bike Rider featured a cracking trip around the Highlands and on to the Isle of Skye to ride the Quiraing Mountain pass and a run over the Pass of the Cattle to Applecross again, I couldn't shift the idea from my mind. Eventually Helen relented, Mark had some holiday owing so we set to planning a trip for the following week. With only a few days to get accommodation booked (I didn't fancy camping this time), and route files tailored from various saved magazine routes we were ready to meet at Quatt Cafe on Sunday morning on our next adventure up North. 

 

The weather looking good at least until Tuesday we had a nice ride up through Whitchurch, the A49 and onto the M6 toward the Lakes, stopping for lunch just after riding the Kirkstone Pass and through the Ullswater valley before riding on near Pooley Bridge, then up across the border to Moffat for our stay for the night in Dumfriesshire.

 

Across the border and off the Motorway the scenery changed. Long roads, out in the Dunmfriesshire countryside so good to get up here again at last. I managed to book us into the Buccleuch Arms Hotel for the night. Mark had stayed here before a really good hotel set up for Motorcyclists where the owner hosts the very informative website 'Motorcycle Scotland' full of many routes options ideal for us bikers. The hotel has some great steel garage bike lockups. I managed to reserve two for a fiver each and on arrival we were greeted by the staff who helped us into the yard and our lockup. There were several GS's on site, and a few other bikes too  and after a 'Covid brief' were were soon downing a few beers and off to the curry house over the road.