Inverness to Dunkeld via Glen Affric and Cairngorms

 

Click to enlarge the route

While planning the trip last week Mark suggested we visited Glen Affric an area west of Loch Ness described as:

'.. a magical mix of native woods, glistening lochs and haunting moorland. It features over 30 miles of ancient pinewoods and is one of the largest ancient Caledonian pine woods in Scotland. You can wander amongst the pine trees accompanied by the chirpy calls of woodland birds. Elsewhere you might encounter ospreys, secretive otters or red- and black-throated divers. Come in autumn and you’ll be inspired by the mosaic of colour and the echoing roar of red deer stags."

So we added the Glen to the route, the problem though was its route has one way in and out, probably why it doesn't feature as a regular motorcycle ride destination and heading in the opposite direction to where we were heading towards the Cairngorms. We started out early after breakfast and decided to give it a go, first riding around part of Loch Ness before turning off down the road to the Glen.

There was a huge waterfall nearby too -  Plodda Falls so we turned off the road to follow the trail track down to find it. At first I was a bit concerned with my new bike riding it down through the forest across gravel and dirt tracks but considering I was on a GS I quickly flipped the ride mode to 'Enduro' and enjoyed the ride. The suspension softened and the throttle response changed to allow a slower less 'snatchy' ride. I considered standing on the pegs and speeding up a bit but didn't want to push it too much with full pannier luggage and top box so took it steady parking up near the short walk down to the falls. Quite impressive I thought, and ended up following Mark down the steps to the foot of the falls to gain perspective as well as standing on the platform at the top.

 

Later, we continued our ride down to the end of the Glen stopping near River Affric to to savour the wonderful views across the forest. I can't say I saw any wildlife as described, maybe two large motorcycles rumbling through scared them off but it was well worth taking the detour out here to pay a visit. Definitely somewhere I would come back to, and perhaps next time stay nearby and walk some of the trails, however I  would bring plenty of 'midge spray'. While parked up waiting for Mark to get moving I was literally surrounded in a fog of midges that somehow ended up getting into my helmet and elsewhere!

After a quick run back into Inverness along the faster A9 out towards Grantown-on-Spey via 'Boat of Garten' making up for lost time in the Glen. By now we were running short on fuel, my gauge was showing less than 20 miles so relieved when we found a petrol station to fill up by looking on the Navigator. Later, we had a fantastic fast ride across the Cairngorms towards Braemar. Mark suggested we ride out to see some of the Balmoral Estate so he took the lead down to Balleter in order to get across the correct side of the River Dee pulling up right on the Balmoral Castle car park. Unfortunately due to Covid it was closed to the public but we had a good break wandering around near the River Dee admiring the Crathie Girder Bridge commissioned by Prince Albert and built by the great Isambard Kingdom Brunel no less.   

Crathie Girder Bridge across the River Dee

 

The final part of today's ride took us up high past the Lecht ski centre into Perthshire and on through the very twisty and fun Spittal of Glenshee section where I was unsure if we had missed the best part so we decided to ride it twice just to be sure! We arrived at the Birnam Hotel on the other side of the River Tay from the larger town of Dunkeld around 6pm. I found it interesting that in common to our own local River Severn town in Bewdley, Worcestershire the bridge across the River Tay was also built by the very same Thomas Telford! 

 

Not long after arrival, I received notification that my daughter Hayley's friend Yasmin (from Uni') had been in touch and her Grandad had visited the hotel a few times to meet up with us. Hayley had a wonderful stay with Yasmin last year in the next village Luncarty and it was by coincidence I had booked the Birnam Hotel for the night in the same town her Grandad had lived all of his life. It would be good to meet up after meeting them at their Graduation ceremony in Southampton a few years ago. Thankfully Yasmin's Grandad caught up with us in the end after I had chance to get out of my biking gear and shower, and kindly took us down to the recommended Perth Arms for our evening meal.